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| This is taken from one of Curly's posts, and is one of the best troubleshooting guides we have seen: 1. First charge your battery to at least 12.5-12.7V. 2. Find a really thin feeler gauge like 0.010" or 0.015" and hold it pointed down about a half inch away from your generator cover on the engine. Now turn the key on. If your regulator and rotor are working the feeler gauge should slap the case when the magnetic field is created in the rotor. If nothing happens or the magnetic effect seems really weak then go on to the next test. 3. On the solid state regulator models all you need to do is locate the green wire at the regulator plug and make a jump from it to ground. That bypasses the regulator and allows full battery current to flow through the brushes out of the rotor through the green wire to ground. That causes the rotor to make a stronger magnetic field which in turn causes more current to flow in the stator. If your battery terminal charge voltage jumps up to 14.5VDC when you rev the engine then the regulator or the ground connection for the regulator is your problem. 4. If nothing changes then it's time to check the voltage on the brown wire (It may be black on your bike) at the positive brush with the key on. It should be very close to battery voltage. The brown wire that feeds the brush gets its power from the brown wire at the keyswitch. Check the voltage at the three wire keyswitch connector while it's plugged in by probing from the backside of the connector with the key on. Again you should see the same voltage as the battery. If you do get full battery voltage there then repair the brown wire circuit between the switch and the positive brush. If not then the switch is either bad or the red wire from the battery is not passing the full current like it should. If that's the case then keep going back along the red wire, through the main fuse until you find the source of the voltage drop. No more than 0.3 VDC drop is acceptable. 5. Once you have full voltage to the positive brush re-check the charging voltage to see if you're getting 14.5 VDC or better at the battery when revved to about 3,000 rpm. If you still don't have a charge then do the feeler gauge test again. If it slaps the case your rotor and regulator are working and you can go on to stator checks. If not then pull the brushes out of their holder and use an ohm meter to test the rotor. Measure the rotor first by touching the tester leads to the brass slip rings. Then take one lead and touch anywhere on the engine that's not painted. For the first test you should see between 5 and 5.5 ohms between the slip rings. On the second test between one slip ring and the engine you should see infinity on the meter. Any reading lower than 5 ohms on the first test or less than infinity on the second test means you have a bad rotor. Replace it. If it tests good then go on to the stator checks. 6. At the stator wire connector locate the three white wires. Use a voltmeter set on the AC scale to test the three possible connections between the white wires by probing from the backside of the connector. (The connector should be plugged togeter for this test) With the engine running at idle you should see about 10.5 to 11 AC volts (Not DC) on each of the three combinations of white to white that you make. If you get a very low reading on one or two legs then something is grounding your stator. If you have high readings on any of the legs (i.e. 16-18VDC) then your rectifier is bad. 7. If you got low readings on any of the stator voltage checks then unplug the connector and use your ohm meter to check the stator windings. Check the resistance between the three fabric covered wires (stator side) on the side of the connector. On each white to white connection you should read about 0.4 to 0.5 Ohms. If you get a very low reading on all of the three combinations find the single Yellow wire connector and disconnect it. Re-check your stator resistance. If the readings are now good then the yellow wire or safety relay are shorted. If there is one or more that still read low after disconnecting the yellow then check those legs by touching one lead to ground with the other on the white wire. You should see a very high Kilo ohm or infinite reading. If you get a low resistance check the stator lead pigtail to see if it is pinched by the cases or rubbed through on the frame. If that looks ok then your stator is shorted and needs to be replaced. And that's about it except to say that dirty connections and worn brushes account for most of the charging system problems. Good Luck you'll find the problem. |
I have also been researching the best and most common way to kick start the bike. Mine won't kick cold even if I jump on it 20 times. Will kick first go hot though….
Was told there are three things working against you when it's cold. The oil is thicker so the kick isn't as fast, the gas doesn't vaporize as well, and you have finding the best position of the choke to contend with. When it's warmed up already, all three are negated.
So it seems the preferred method it to choke the bike, give the bike two prep kicks (primes the combustion chamber), then turn on the ignition and give it a kick. If it stalls repeat until it runs. Some people give the throttle a half or full turn some don't…….
Also the carbs being properly tuned and the clutch correctly adjusted can play a part…..Also the bike won't kick with a flat battery!
So I have some testing to do to see if I can get it to kick cold. Trial & Error baby!
Here is some other info on starting:
If your engine won't start with the starter motor, it means you have a problem area somewhere:
1) starter motor worn out (brushes)
2) battery too small (less tha 14 amp/hr)
3) charging system not charging battery fully
Currently I am going with the concept Battery is too small (Low on Charge)…..
FRAME MODS
I was told Blue Collar Customs, and Mischief Makers (Craig) may also be possible candidates today.
Can't find Blue Collar Customs in Brunswick…….There was on in QLD that closed down…..
Located Mischief Makers after a lot of searching and have been in brief contact. He seems willing to help out.
I have been informed on Kustom Deluxe:
The go-to-guy for frame mods in Melbourne is Dale Gilbert.
I spoke to Dale today. He and his brother build mainly racing frames from scratch but are happy to look at modifying or adding a rigid rear end to a frame or doing a rake and stretch
Importantly, they have a frame jig. Dales number is 9317 9888 I havent had anything done by him, but he came highly recommended. Dale is in Maidstone.
I did put a call through to Steve Martin but he hasn't got back to me yet.
Steve martin, if he ever resurfaces, is the son of Bob Martin (Engineering). Steve was forced to shut up shop after the gubmint legislated him out of business. He did my frame mods when he was working for JAT Choppers, but JAT packed up and moved to NSW.
Steve comes highly recommended but if it was the guy I heard about his Father was the engineer and once he died they were forced to close down shop as no one was ticketed to oversee the work regardless of how competent they were.
If you know of anybody else that can be recommended, list them here.
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