Friday, 29 July 2011

To Do or Not To Do……..That certainly is the question!

Well pulled the mufflers off and the do have some sort of internal wall which I assume is a baffle of some kind……Still they are too loud to pass so I can easily throw so steel wool in behind the wall and it wont shoot out the pipe with hard acceleration, may still burn up but at least there will be no shooting fire balls………..just hope I don't go up in flames!  Will put em in for RWC and take em out again right after. I like loud pipes……Loud Pipes Save Lives!

As  for the rear wheel it has beaten me temporarily…I don't have a center stand on my bike and I tried to get t up on blocks but that isn't a job for one person, this is a heavy bike man!  I didn't feel like having it fall over either.

To Do List!……..

1.  Need to quiet my pipes down so going to stick some steel wool in them and see what happens with that…..O'Skool baffles man…

Can buy stuff from the bike shop fine Stainless Steel…. I am thinking to go to Coles and see if I can get something cheap an nasty!

2. Rear Brake,  pull the rear wheel off and take a look at the hub brake see if anything has gone a miss and give it a general clean up inside. Then a good clean outside and I think I might polish the brake side cover while I'm at it.

I will also measure up the rear axle to see how it compares with what I will need for the wide rear when the time comes.

3. Front forks need new dust covers, so I am thinking of fitting gaiters instead and will replace the oil in the fork which seem to be dry currently and new fork seals.  Planing on going for a 15wt Fork Oil or ATF no detergents and have ingredients to preserve the seals.  May have a set of seals in the spares box fingers crossed! Even if I do they maybe for the other bikes, the 74 has the narrower 34mm tubes.

Want to get my hands on a 60ml syringe, length of brass or stainless tube and some clear hose and make one of these suckers up for adjusting the fork oil level.

While the front end is of I will polish the down tubes and clean the front wheel as I will have already done the rear wheel.

4. Look into what can be done about the rear shocks and swapping them over.

Thursday, 28 July 2011

The motocycle industry is ageist!

Went to see about a RWC on the bike again today……Should have known it was going to be a bad day!

Anyway Intune have a guy off sick (50% of the staff) so Tim is flat out, said it be 2weeks before he could look at doing it.  He did point out that the rear shocks have pitting through the chrome and that makes the hydraulic shaft unroad worthy!  Shit I am going to hardtail the thing soon…  Other than that he would have to wait and take a good look at her when I bring her back.  Also told me my pipes were too loud…SURPRISE!!!   Wondering about putting steel wool inside to act as a baffle.  Not sure how it will affect breathing.

While out I went to Yamaha as I need to replace my fork seals and dust boots. The forks are currently running dry. Which is not good. The 74 has 34mm forks so it is not compatible with the other two which have the later model 35mm forks.

Amazingly Yamaha still sells these parts:
584-23145-50 DF2 2M Fork Seal 234x46x10.5 Qty 2 =$25.40
278023144-50 DG Seal (Dust cover) Qty 2 =$162.20

That's $162AUD is form Yamaha, Mikes & 650 central are $22US….
Umm guess who I won't be buying from????

Seals are $20US a pair so that is not such a variation.
Hoping there is a cheaper option!

Motorcycle Front Fork Oil Seals
Size = 34mm x 46mm x 10.5mm

Fitment List:
  • 1975 Kawasaki F9
  • 1974 Kawasaki F9
  • 1973 Kawasaki F9
  • 1972 Kawasaki F9
  • 1971 Kawasaki F5
  • 1970 Kawasaki F5
  • 1976 Kawasaki KT250
  • 1975 Kawasaki KT250
  • 1974 Kawasaki KX450
  • 1973 Kawasaki H1 Mach III
  • 1971 Kawasaki H1 Mach III
  • 1970 Kawasaki H1 Mach III
  • 1969 Kawasaki H1 Mach III

  • 1973 Suzuki TM250
  • 1972 Suzuki TM250
  • 1972 Suzuki TM400
  • 1971 Suzuki TM400
  • 1972 Suzuki T250
  • 1975 Suzuki T500 Titan
  • 1974 Suzuki T500 Titan
  • 1973 Suzuki T500 Titan
  • 1972 Suzuki T500 Titan
  • 1971 Suzuki T500 Titan
  • 1970 Suzuki T500 Titan

  • 1971 Yamaha DT1MX
  • 1976 Yamaha MX125
  • 1975 Yamaha MX250
  • 1974 Yamaha MX250
  • 1973 Yamaha MX250
  • 1974 Yamaha MX360
  • 1973 Yamaha MX360
  • 1975 Yamaha MX400
  • 1971 Yamaha RT1MX
  • 1970 Yamaha RT1MX
  • 1974 Yamaha SC500
  • 1973 Yamaha SC500
  • 1977 Yamaha TY250
  • 1976 Yamaha TY250
  • 1975 Yamaha TY250
  • 1974 Yamaha TY250
  • 1977 Yamaha YZ100
  • 1976 Yamaha YZ100
  • 1976 Yamaha YZ125
  • 1975 Yamaha YZ250
  • 1974 Yamaha YZ250
  • 1975 Yamaha YZ360
  • 1974 Yamaha YZ360
  • 1975 Yamaha RD250
  • 1974 Yamaha RD250
  • 1973 Yamaha RD250
  • 1975 Yamaha RD350
  • 1974 Yamaha RD350
  • 1973 Yamaha RD350
  • 1978 Yamaha RD400
  • 1977 Yamaha RD400
  • 1976 Yamaha RD400
  • 1974 Yamaha TX500
  • 1973 Yamaha TX500
  • 1974 Yamaha TX650
  • 1973 Yamaha TX650
  • 1971 Yamaha XS1
  • 1970 Yamaha XS1
  • 1972 Yamaha XS2
  • 1975 Yamaha XS500
  • 1976 Yamaha XS650
  • 1975 Yamaha XS650

Was just riding home now and the rear drum brake pedal has gone soft….
In other words F-all stopping power but will hold stationary on a hill. There wasn't much free play in the foot pedal before but there is a lot now……

Every ride an new issue…..Starting to wonder about the whole old XS thing!

Sunday, 24 July 2011


Surfin looking for pinstriping inspiration and I came across this Sweet Lowrider Cruiser!

matt nobles merc

Paint work done by the awesomely talented:
Mat Egan.
Phone: +61 0419588987

This guy has serious skills!


I remember once being told not to put stickers etc on my helmet as the glue can weaken the helmets structure.

I don't know if this related to composite helmets, fibreglass, & carbonfibre?

Also is it possible to custom paint helemts and still have them safe to use?

I love these but of course they are not approved here!

Saturday, 23 July 2011

FK-N Harley Branded Wanna be's

Went up to Peter Stevens (Big chain bike dealer & Harley Distributor) today just to take the scooter out for a ride and to have a look at some Draggin Cargos (Kevlar lined).

Ok so I am riding a Vintage YAMAHA chop with a questionable paint job depending on your tastes!

F*ck me all the hard ass wanna be's in their harley jackets with their harley shirts, harley boots, bandannas, caps, even harley handbags on the women, bet they even wore harley jox……  All looking at me like I was a alien with purple skin.  Some dick even rolled up on a brand new mercedes wearin his HD branded shit….. An I am the one getting funny looks…….

Hell I was the only one kick startin his bike!   I think that makes me more biker than any of them!

The other week down at Kustom Lane (local bike, hot rod & lowbrow art event). I fitted right in with the Harleys, Yams, Vincents, Cafes, Chops an Hot Rods the Guys from the Immortals (Outlaw Biker Gang) didn't look twice at me……But obviously the bolt on weekend warrior Harley brigade are to good for me and my ride…….….

That's my vent……….

On another note I discovered I can't kick start up hill……….When on a steep incline the kick start lever has no compression/resistance. Soon as  I turned her side ways all was good.

Sunday, 17 July 2011


I got someone a little more experienced with bikes to give me hand today and we ran through Curly's list.  

Thanks for the help Warren. Very generous with his time!

Step 1. Charged her up and rode over, wasn't a fun trip she was running like a pig, farting, cursing and stalling.
Step 2.  Got Slapped
Step 3. Did anyway..
Step 4. Did anyway
Step 5. 5.66 ohms Between slip rings just over range (negligible) Passes test 1&2.
Step 6. 11.5-11.8 AC Volts  Within range 

Stator Bush @ Idle 11.2-11.7 ohms, drops when revving engine.
Battery @ High RPM  13.2V
Lights on @ idle Drop - 0.2-0.4

Summary the system seems to be functioning……..however there is a bit of a loss through the system.  So maybe the amount of short runs, stoping & Starting the bike is not getting a chance to charge up???

Sanded the battery connectors, to get a little more conductivity.  Thinking maybe a PMA will help & more kick less, elec starter.

Warren also adjusted the idle speed up so she behaved like a lady and rode beautifully home, no farting or stalling. Which was a good thing since it was the first time I have ridden in the rain and at night on the bike and many years since I have done so on any bike.

I was supposed to check the battery charge when I got home. But I was freezing cold, soaked, and in need of a piss. So regrettably I didn't.

Saturday, 16 July 2011


Got the bike out today……….The no kick cold bike!   (Kick it 20 times won't start with ignition on. )

Well it is a little warmer today but still a winter one! .Dry weather for working in the street on my bike. The battery was fully charged 13.3V Just for reference. (Step 1) 

Lost the damn terminal nut so had to make a new one, how annoying, simple jobs are never simple! 

I choked the bike, opened both petcocks, stood the bike up, give three prime kicks……turned ignition on, gave it another kick, whalah! Fired right up……. 

So guys I now have a method to kick start cold that seems to work.  Thanks to the guys over at for the tips.

Hope fully this will help until I get my battery issues sorted…… 

I don't know what is flattening the battery I bought a new batt, and after taking the bike for a ride with a few stop starts the bike gets harder and harder to start until it is dead! So I know it is not the battery at fault.

Not sure if it is a charging issue, or the elec start is just draining the *#@** outta the battery. 

Did the feeler guage test today (Step2) and it slaps the tank when turn the ignition switch. 

If your regulator and rotor are working the feeler gauge should slap the case when the magnetic field is created in the rotor. If nothing happens or the magnetic effect seems really weak then go on to the next test.

Not sure what to look at from here. 

In Curlys test it says if it fails move to step 3. What if it passes? Does that mean the issue is someplace else? Or should I still follow on the steps? 

I don't have a soild state regulator stock on my bike as it is a 74 they didn't come with them! 
I have 2x Bosch coils so they have been upgraded, and I picked up one of Hughs PMA second hand unused, (not fitted)….. 

Reread Curly's test….. I jump to Step 6 - Stator Checks.  Not sure I know how to follow this one..

I am at the point I would pay someone to come around and sort this out with me…..Don't want to pay a shop cos that way I won't learn!!! 

Totally at a loss! Probably simple to someone in the know……..THAT'S NOT ME!

Wednesday, 13 July 2011

Chicara Nagata

By Chicara Nagata


Boxes, Boxes, Boxes XMAS came early…..

Merry F-N Xmas

Everyone loves a freebie!  After my Dremel blew I had to replace it and they gave me a free Project table for my troubles!

PMA Unused 2nd Hand…...

2nd Hand but good condition Clip ons...

Same thing guy put it on his bike but didn't like it, my gain! These were custom made in a short run by a one of the forum guys on 

So now I have clip ons, custom billet triple, mojave tank, and a doner bike, well on my way to having all the bits for the Cafe.  Just need small indicators, cafe seat, and rear cowl with fitted tail light and maybe some rear sets!!!

Funny how all this shit was ordered at different times but the door it all arrived on the same day except for one item which was sent from the same place on the same day it arrived part 1 yesterday & part 2 today?  Go figure.



A few shots from Chops 'n Bobs 4 @ Kustom Lane Gallery.

Love The Black and Gold, Nicely Finished Norton

Great Lines to this scooter!

The Fuel Cap reads:
If you value your life as much as I value this bike don't fuck with it!!!
Seen it before but love the application of it on the recessed fuel cap.

Love this I wanted to buy it but was a bit too much coin for the budget :(

Old Skool Kool!